Emily in France

Update!

2009-03-03T12:24:00.009-05:00

Was the last post really in November? Geez, where does the time go? Well, I've been living in a comfortable and affordable apartment in Clichy thanks to the very generous Mary Dibbern! :) I've also been teaching and tackling life issues like where am I going after this contract is up? So it ends in June, but my carte de sejour is good till September... can I find a job here for the summer? Having trouble finding one here now, and I need an extra one! Grace a l'administration Francaise, my reimbursement for my transport won't go through till the end of March (was going to be end of April till I cried in their office about how am I supposed to live till then..) And I've applied to renew, but not sure a.) if I'll get it, and b.) if I want it. What I REALLY want is to get into the Atelier Lyrique at Paris Opera that I tried for four years ago and feel like this is my last chance to get into--- (read and you'll see how far I've come) But like all programs there are only two spots open and dozens of sopranos auditioning... but I'm positive. When I first saw the program I felt like it was meant for me, so if it is, I'll get in. If not, not sure where to go from there in pursuit of an opera career. I don't have the financial resources to go back to school or to travel all over to do tons of auditions... but let's not go there yet! I need positive thoughts my way March 10, at 2 PM Paris time (or 8 AM EST). 8 AM my time America? Geez, I'd never be able to sing that early back home! Anyway, that's where I'm at! Sorting out my life... sort of.

Home sweet home!

2008-11-10T13:26:00.004-05:00

No, it's not a prison... it's a school and it's where I live! I'm on the second floor, the first three windows up top are mine, and the tiny one on the side is my bathroom. :D

This next one is the street where I live. When I call you and say that I'm freezing, it's cause I'm calling from this little phone booth! Soon I will have my Freebox phone and won't need to hang out here in the cold! (And don't you just LOVE the fall colors around here??)

Fun stuff!

2008-11-10T13:10:00.006-05:00

So enough griping about admin stuff in France---there will always be something to complain about! I have internet--woohoo! and am waiting for my phone to be connected to call the US --for FREE---yes there are perks to living here!
Anyway my new favorite two food recipes:

For lunch: salad with gnocchi--ok, it sounds bizarre, but let me tell you---yum!
So, put a teaspoon of butter in a pan, let it melt, add a little vegetable oil (not olive oil--according to mom NOT for cooking--can cause cancer when heated.... who knew!) --you can just use butter, but it's better to be a LITTLE healthy... when the butter/oil is melted, throw in a serving of gnocchi. Toss around for about five minutes, until they are a yellowy, golden color. Then add to a salad of mixed greens, tomatoes, and mozerella. Top salad with basil, pepper and olive oil. You may add an indulgence of grated emmental on top, but not necessary. This is my new favorite food! Yum!

For breakfast I'm sorry to say you can't recreate the EXACT thing in the States, but I will share anyway.... so they have a type of cream cheese that is smooth, almost sweet called 'petit suisse.' It's ALmost like Philly cream cheese, but smoother and way yummier... so I've been topping my healthy 7 grain tartines (basically toasted bread in a biscuit-like form) with this tiny bit of heaven and topping it all off with some yummy mixed fruit preserves! Be envious. It's divine!!

OK, and I finally did some exploring around my neighborhood. Now despite being very near the Val Fouree, noted for their riots and burning cars a few years ago, it's actually quite nice. There's a lovely lake about five minutes from my house, and a mysterious church that I've yet to see the interior to--it has posted visiting hours, but I never can find an open door!

More of the same

2008-10-25T06:53:00.002-04:00

So still going through bureaucratic hell as I haven't got my bank card yet and it's been weeks! Going to yell at them on Monday... I was told that certain paperwork had to be turned in to the Rectorat by Oct 7 to get paid by the end of the month. I turned in all MY paperwork--but someone at the inspection didn't send something called the Procès de Verbal Installation, which I had signed and asked for a copy and they said--no, we'll take care of it so there is no 'soucis' or problem... Guess what. Il y a un soucis... they didn't send it on time!! But apparently they didn't send anyone's so there is hope I will get paid next week... if I get my bank card and PIN. I at least have a RIB which proves I have an account... Oh, la vie française! So all that is tempered with drinks out with grec mec (a few of you know who I am talking about), and lovely cheese plates and good cheap wine... I also may get the free apartment in exchange for babysitting, but the lady won't decide till after vacances, even though she was so pressed a week ago... I am also still taking lessons, though less frequently as I am unsure when I'll be paid (la vie impossible!). My coach studied with THE Pierre Bernac, which is VERY impressive as he is the definitive source for all French mélodie. Oh, and I am off to Paris for the day! Train leaves in ten minutes, so I will tell more later!

à Mantes la Jolie...

2008-10-13T06:01:00.002-04:00

Hello everyone! Sorry I've been lax about writing... the days go by so quickly, et il y a beacoup de choses à faire! So, for now, I'm living in what's called a logement de fonction, or an apartment that's attached to the school. It's big by France standards... bedroom, full kitchen, full bath... and the rent is cheap, 205€, and then pay water and heat every couple of months... But tonight I have a meeting to get a tiny apartment in Paris in exchange for babysitting. Once I have the details, I can tell you more. But I may keep both places at least for a while as I don't have to pay anything until December. (They messed up my paperwork, and I'm not getting paid till end of November...) I'm also working on getting a secondary tutoring job to help pay for my voice lessons... I've only taken one lesson so far, with a coach at Paris Opera. I have a lot of work to do on my diction! But she likes me and I think I will go far with her... Tomorrow I have a voice lesson, so I'm looking forward to that! Bon, I'm in an internet cafe, so my time is charged... à bientot!!

Oh, j'arrive et j'ai un petit de peur...

2008-08-31T00:34:00.002-04:00

So! I have my arrete, my visa... selling my car... Big breath! This is so exciting and yet so scary! I'm a little overwhelmed by the task ahead of me, and who wouldn't be? Will I be able to write a credible French CV to send to agents? Will they audition an American? Can I put together a recital that would wow a crowd of agents, if they actually seemed interested? How will I afford the 90+ euros for voice lessons?? Yes, deep breathing is needed here. Ok, so let's break this down... Monday I am going to get new headshots. Hopefully I'll be able to meet with my coach again before I go and *maybe* convince my school to let me make just one more recording. :) I do have a teacher in Paris, but how helpful will she be? Will I find a space to practice? Will I find a decent apartment? Will I actually get a job singing opera?! So many questions and worries! I have butterflies in my stomach like before I'm about to sing really well. So that's a good sign, right?
It doesn't help that I met a dancer today who tried to conquer Paris when she was my age. She was American but had spent her childhood in France, and yet every door was closed to her. Grant it, she didn't have a job to start with, I have a government contract at least. I have sung in France before under the auspices of the New York Opera Society... but still, it shook my confidence a bit. Can I work the system? I've always thought my career future was in Europe, I just pray I picked the right country. So, my friends out there in cyberspace, send your good thoughts and encouraging words this way. I'm doing what I think I must, and what I think is best, since I don't have thousands lying around to do pay-to-sing gigs in the hopes of getting an audition for a young artists' program here in the States... I will get by in Paris by the skin of my teeth, but I will get by. I just have to be smart, persistent, and damn amazing when I open my mouth to sing...

More info!

2008-07-03T14:05:00.002-04:00

OK, so I know where I'll be and for how long, but still waiting for that elusive arrete.... I have a nine month primaire contract in Mantes la Jolie... I'm happy with the contract, but not necessarily where I'm placed. I've been to Mantes la Jolie, and it isn't very 'jolie'. It is also about a 30 minute commute on a direct train from St. Lazare... I plan on commuting, and have redoubled my efforts to find an apartment in Paris. The commute won't be so bad, and I definitely don't want to live in Mantes la Jolie... I might as well live in Evreux! It's only about 20 minutes further downt the track! Oh, how ironic! But at least I know those details and pray I can find an apartment and AFFORD an apartment. This American economy is killing me right now... it's so hard to save money and I absolutely must! I also am trying to decide if I should sell my car before I go... it's paid off and only has 77,000 miles on it... but I could sure use the 2-3 grand it would give me... any advice out there???

One step closer!

2008-06-06T00:41:00.002-04:00

Bought my ticket today! Got one from www.vayama.com for $500 (a one-way) including $25 for insurance on Aer Lingus. Luck o' the Irish, and all that. I plan on getting another one-way when I get my contract so I know when I might be coming back (hopefully only briefly to take care of visa issues). Gradually a plan is forming to help me stay in Europe, if not France. I may go to school if I stay in France and study, what else? French. But it would just be an excuse to stay longer... I'm also applying for the ever illusive Fulbright scholarship, probably for the following year cause it's such a long, drawn out process. Chances are probably slim there, but I did graduate from grad school with a 3.7. That should count for something. :) Work is really exhausting me, but I got to keep plugging along... I originally signed a six month contract and have hit the half way mark. So that means 3 more months till France! I hope my arrete comes in the next month. And I REALLY hope they offer me some sort of housing, even if I only use it temporarily... it would make my life so much easier as finding an apartment in Paris is like finding one in New York, except you throw in the twist that I am a foreigner. So, quite a daunting task there. But I have faith it will work out.

LONGING for Paris!!

2008-05-11T21:12:00.003-04:00

About four months away and I can't wait!!! Paris is calling my name! I get through work everyday telling myself it's one more step to moving to Paris! I'm working on my French, doing a few pages in a French workbook everyday and renting a French movie now and then. Most recently watched Le Dernier Metro with--guess, who else?--Gerard Depardieu, cause he's in EVERY French movie! I also saw Paris Je t'aime, which is a hodgepodge of vignettes by different directors. I liked most of them. But what is even funnier to me is that it kept my dad's attention, who usually only watches something if it's got some sex or violence in it. Though he has been known to go to an occasional chick flick. ;)
Anyway, I'm also finding myself becoming increasingly literary. I'm reading Jane Austen's Northanger Abbey along with The Jane Austen Book Club, Almost French (again!), and I have a list of about ten other books in my room I need to read. But most of all, my heart longs for Paris, especially this time of year! I LOVE Paris in May! "I love Paris in the springtime" sounds cliche, but it is SO true!! The air is crisp, the flowers are out, love is in the air... If I close my eyes, I can almost imagine myself there!
So only a few more months! Soon the daunting task of finding housing will hit. Any ideas out there where to begin? I'm thinking of getting a temporary set-up for the first two weeks or month, and then look for something more permanent, or even stay wherever I end up for the temporary place if that works... It's just so expensive! And so hard with a weak dollar. But I have faith and hope that it will all work out. I believe I'm meant to go back. I'm trusting my instincts... it will be divine!

To anonymous

2008-04-29T21:09:00.005-04:00

I sent my application in right near the deadline, last week of January. And then they extended the deadline... some people are still waiting to hear... do you know the assistant's website? Check it out: www.assistantsinfrance.com/forums

Accepted to go back to France!!!

2008-04-29T13:58:00.002-04:00

Just got an email saying I've been accepted to teach in Versailles, which is a hop away from Paris!! Woo hoo! Of couse, I know nothing about what level I'll be teaching or for how long, but I thought any word was weeks away yet, so at least I know this much! Now I just have to work my tail off and earn as much money as I can in the coming months and figure out how to get an apartment in Paris. Cause I WILL live in Paris, even if I'm commuting out to Versailles somewhere... Versailles itself is very expensive, and it's a large academie, so I could actually be teaching anywhere in that area. Wish me luck, world out there!!

Writer's remorse (sort of)

2008-04-03T12:13:00.002-04:00

Wow, I was pretty bummed last night as you can see from the next post down. I've debated taking it down, but I am leaving it to afford honesty to my blogging and to leave up some pretty good writing, if I do say so. But today I went to the gym and feel more optimistic, even if the longing for another life still lingers.

Late at night

2008-04-03T01:46:00.003-04:00

The fears creep in late at night... I haven't had a voice lesson in about six months. I need to audition for something to feel like a singer again... I practice, but I need a proper lesson! At night my head is filled with nursery rhymes from a job I had to take out of necessity, but it scares me silly---what if the kids get too attached to me? Or, God forbid, I to them? Cause there is a niggling doubt in my mind--that longing that comes from turning 27 to have a life more settled, and yet I still live like a teenager. I live with dad for the time being, and I am free. I must take advantage of it---right? I long for the acceptance to go to Paris, but part of me fears it as well. What if I muck it up again? What if I don't find a way to sing and perform there? Do I come back here and start from scratch again? How many chances am I afforded to do that? I think I should count myself very lucky if I get accepted to go to France a second time. Some people dream all their lives of going just once. You see, dear reader, I am a dreamer, and that is part of the problem. I long for more than the everyday---I need to be surrounded by art and beauty, and of course love, though I've seen little of it in my life, at least on the romantic end. And maybe that is the problem right there. It's not that I 'need a man to make me complete,'---that's bullshit. But don't we all long to be loved? And would that slow my wunderlust? I wonder... And yet, I ask myself, is the love I'm looking for across the ocean? In the arms of a man I met but briefly in an entirely cliche last night in Paris encounter? That seems highly unlikely, but it sadly is as close to the real thing I've ever felt. And God, I need to perform. Not silly nursery songs---but real hard work opera. I long for the stage and a score in my hand... I feel so lost without a performance on the horizon. So I've decided my students will give a recital instead. And in my sad attempt to let myself perform, I've asked one of my more advanced piano students if she'll accompany me in a Phantom of the Opera piece. Not that I particularly like performing musical theater anymore, but because I know she can play it and I have to perform, dammit. I've managed only to do one competition since I've graduated in December. I feel like I should have my calendar more full, like a dance card in days of old. I need a few turns on the dance floor, and so far there are not many prospects. Cause it takes money and I've got to save every dime I can for the hope of returning to France. Right? Cause that's where I can bloom, surely. Not here, in Suburbia, teaching nursery school and music. I feel so stifled I want to scream sometimes. I long for so much more in my life. Am I asking too much?

day by day...

2008-03-22T16:05:00.002-04:00

A waiting game is what this is... and how I long to be happy in the moment. But all I see here are mortgage crises, 'recession' being tossed around, and a general panic about having enough money. I certainly feel the crunch since I teach kids piano and voice. And what do you think is the first thing to go when money gets tight? Mom's yoga class or daily Starbucks? No, the kids' piano lessons... So my pocket gets hit, right when I need to be saving the most. Oh, woe to thee who sign up with credit cards too early! I'm going to pay mine off before moving to France, but how much nicer would it be to never have had them in the first place.

Anyway, all is not doom and gloom... the kids I teach are mostly pretty sweet and most of them practice regularly. I just need a social life! I've graduated with my Masters and have since only hung out with one friend regularly and the rest of the crew about twice. My life is mostly work and dreams of escaping to Paris... No love interest here, family is scattered, so the focus becomes on getting enough dough together to move overseas and 'start my life.' And I hate feeling that way. I'm alive now and should be enjoying myself more. But there isn't much to do in Suburbia besides go to the movies or go out to a bar, and I can't stand cigarette smoke or guys oggling me.

So I breathe, do my yoga, write this blog, and look for small moments of pleasure in the interim before I leave for Paris. I have my glass of wine, I cook a little a la francais, I sing, I write, I read, I dream... I am determined to believe there is more to this life than working for the next paycheck or living for the next episode of whatever tv show you like to obsess over. There is art, music, love, food, and good company. And if I can't find all those things here, I know where they exist in abundance, and so I shall aim to leave Stress-ville and return to a city where life breathes into my soul more deeply.

Expat to-be

2008-03-09T22:24:00.003-04:00

Yes, I'm working in America, going to kill myself with three jobs for the next six months, but the payoff will be way worth it--freedom in France! And I hope---Paris! But with the dollar being so weak, I have to save up nearly twice as much money to buy my freedom from America. I know I sound unpatriotic, but it's true. My dad fought for this country in Vietnam, and I respect him for it, but the USA today is not the USA of yesteryear... Bush has certainly messed it up enough for at least the next couple of generations, and who knows what will happen in the future----but I digress, this is not a political blog. I simply don't feel home here. I live with my dad, and have no desire to settle in my own apartment in this sad area. I don't see the charm here. Not when I have Paris in the back of my mind. My mom's in South Carolina, and I can't seeing moving there because there aren't a whole lot of opportunities for opera singers there. So Paris it is. And I've already resigned myself to the things I'll miss: tv in English, and milk.... um, that's it, I think. I can make the sacrifices in exchange for fresh bread everyday, the Musee D'Orsay a metro ride away, my pick of cafes, and the everyday magic that I find in Paris. Not to mention that Greek guy I met my last night there... a whole story on its own, and one to which I don't know the ending. We only spent six hours together after all... but it sure is nice to daydream about...

Longing for Paris

2008-02-19T10:07:00.003-05:00

Oh, man, the more I listen to podcasts and watch movies about Paris, the more I long to be there. Right now! I long for strolling through ancient neighborhoods and making little discoveries about food or history as I meander through this enchanting city. I can even look at a map of Paris and say 'Oh, yeah, I remember that quartier' or 'I should really explore that area more...' And what is so funny is that I wasn't always a francophile. I used to sort of laugh at people that said Paris is the best place on earth. I could never imagine that it could live up to such high expectations. And this is even more ironic since I am a romantic. I guess I was afraid the dream couldn't be real, and imagine my surprise when I learned that it could be. I had some of the most magical experiences of my life while in Paris. I met the most amazing people, saw the most beautiful objets d'arts and architecture that I could have imagined. I LONG to go back... May can't happen fast enough so I know if I was accepted to teach in Paris... and after that, September can't come faster!!

katia and kyliemac

2008-02-08T14:22:00.000-05:00

So I mentioned I had been looking for podcasts about Paris, and I found one! This one is done by two girls, one American the other Australian. It's really funny, entertaining, and sometimes even educational. :) It makes me reminisce about things I remember about France and introduces some ideas I've never thought about before. Keep it up K & K!
katia and kyliemac original version (VO)

2008-02-07T21:20:00.000-05:00

Just to be surrounded by beauty like this everyday... one of the myriad reasons I love Paris.

The Eiffel Tower Cafe

2008-02-07T14:33:00.001-05:00

So, I decided to explore this little historical district a few miles away from my home town. I wasn't sure what I would find, but I knew I'd stop somewhere for lunch. So what's the first cafe I see? A Parisian cafe called the Eiffel Tower Cafe, which sounded really cheesy. I wasn't sure what to expect: true French brasserie or American kinda-sorta French? But, as it turns out, I had stumbled upon an authentic French restaurant! The server who was also the host and I think the owner, spoke with me in French, which charmed me right away. Turns out he's from New York though his parents are French... anyway, the food! It was DIVINE!! The bread was very French, with that nice crispiness on the outside. I ate a goat cheese salad that was AMAZING--imagine warm goat cheese cooked in the fluffiest pastry you can imagine served with a small salad of greens and carrots----yum! The entree was tilapia with squash and spinach---utter heaven! I even splurged and had a glass of wine... it wasn't terribly expensive for the quality ($38, including tip), but more then I'd usually spend.
The funniest thing about it was I've been mulling over France so much in the past few weeks, just examining why I want to go back and making sure it's the right choice. Well, I've come to the conclusion that yes, it is the right choice. I smiled at being able to speak French again, and just enjoying the 'Frenchness' of the whole dining experience. If anything, it reaffirms my desire to go back to France. Oui, j'arrive...j'arrive.

2008-02-05T22:47:00.000-05:00

Je veux être à Paris ! En ce moment ! That's all I have to say about it. :)

Revamped blog!

2008-02-04T09:27:00.000-05:00

Bonjour à tous!
I've just revamped my webpage and hope you like it! Please leave comments about accessibility of links, archives, whatever. A lot of the early blogs on this page are from my sejour three years ago in France. I read them now and realize how much I've changed! I'm a lot less idealistic then I was then, which I guess, is a good and bad thing... anyway, I am planning on going back to France this fall and I'm going to use this blog to discuss the preparation process! Enjoy!

2008-02-03T17:00:00.001-05:00

France, here I come....again!!

2008-02-03T16:53:00.000-05:00

So, I've applied to be an assistante again in France. Why? Well, I've completed my Masters, I miss Paris, and there is that sweet Greek guy I met that I still talk to now and then... and, why not? I have no ties here (unless you count student loans as ties, which I do not). I miss Paris especially and hope to be placed there. I've been obsessively checking the assistants website and looking for podcasts in and about France. I wouldn't be leaving till September, and this time, I plan to have, well, a better plan. I research everything I can each day in order to figure out how to get the best deals in flights and housing... It's like planning a wedding, and every detail must be perfect. I'm teaching music right now to make enough money to make living in Paris possible... Anyway, here comes my France obsession once more!

London

2005-07-07T11:13:00.000-04:00

I was disgusted and disheartened to hear about the bombings in London today. For one, I spent eight months abroad and never saw or experienced anything even remotely terrorist related. And secondly, London is one of the most friendly cities in the world. I remember toting my luggage through some of the very tube stations affected by the bombings and having numerous people ask if they could help me. "Need a hand, love?" And I wonder if some of these very same Good Samaritans were hurt or worse in these bombings, as people take the same routes throughout the city every day.

I am proud London got selected to host the Olympics. I would have been happy if Paris had gotten it as well. But there is something fundamentally more open about the people of London, something about their positive spirit that makes it even sadder that this happened to them today.

My thoughts and prayers are with the Londoners. The British are a resilient people and I know they will come back from this stronger than ever.

Home!

2005-05-18T21:03:00.000-04:00

Well, I am back, safe in the USA. It feels strange to be back---like, did I really do all that in Europe? Did it all really happen?? But I have the pictures to prove it! :) I am still feeling a bit jet-lagged... and getting on the road again tomorrow. I am heading to Richmond to see my friends. I am not sure what my next step is in life---for one, I need to get a job. And I can't give up singing, despite some road blocks. Truly, I have done only two auditions, and both of them were for very ambitious organizations. I can't be discouraged. I have to just buckle down, study, and figure out my next move...
So, there you have it. I had a wonderful experience in France. I learned a lot about myself and a lot about life. I wouldn't exchange it for the world! But now I need to be a bit practical and figure out which way to go next.
Thanks to everyone out there who thought about me and prayed for me while I was away!I certainly had guardian angels on my journeys. Meg being the number one angel--don't know what I would have done without her. She helped me through some hard times when I first got to France and was always there when I needed someone. And thanks to Julie! That last week in Paris was magic!!

Cheers, and I'll keep everyone posted on what's going on.
But remember---always strive for your dreams... Reach for the moon. For even if you fail, you'll still land among the stars.

2005-05-18T08:57:00.000-04:00

Magical Mt. St. Michel

2005-05-18T08:54:00.000-04:00

Bella Tuscany...

2005-05-18T08:53:00.000-04:00

Ancient Rome

2005-05-18T08:51:00.000-04:00

St Peter's Square, Vatican City, Rome

2005-05-17T17:35:00.000-04:00

Ah... Italy... first, the Alps, then Trevi fountain in Rome...

Confessions of a young opera singer in the City of Lights

2005-05-02T17:58:00.000-04:00

So I haven't talked about my dream on this website---been too scared to. It's something so close to my heart, but things are done so there's nothing to do but tell my story... I tried for the Royal Academy of Music in London. Didn't feel like I gave it my all, and didn't get in. Then, when I was so down on myself, I found out about the audition for the Atelier Lyrique or Young Artists Program here in Paris at the Bastille. I thought it was a dream come true and that Fate was leading me to it. I stumbled upon info about it in a random bookstore, and everything seemed to fall into place---even found an accompanist in po-dunk Evreux to practice with. It seemed perfect. And walking to the auditio, it all felt right, like it was for me. But hélas, it was not to be. Didn't even get a second audition. Why? Dunno, except I am young and maybe too inexperienced. I have, after all, shot for the top. So where does this leave me? A bit disillusioned, surely. I came here thinking I'd find my destiny---that I'd find my way into singing in an opera house. Well, it was not to be. I am sad, but not discouraged. I guess my path will be harder than I thought---and nothing worth having is easy to get. But I do feel like my bubble has popped, especially after this magical weekend in Paris. Time to settle back into reality---whatever that is. Just as long as it is not a dead-end job and should've beens, I'll be ok.
I can't complain about my life, only that it hasn't worked out in the picture perfect way I imagined it. I have seen and done so much, and have accomplished so much. At least I am TRYING to follow my dream. I know there are others out there who never even take the first step. My favorite saying is 'Reach for the moon, for even if you fail, you'll still land among the stars.' And so, I've reached for the moon, and have failed, but I am still among the stars---I've seen palaces, and great works of art, old buildings, ancient rivers, and walked where the famous and the infamous have walked. I AM among the stars, and the moon is still in my sight...

Lucky girl...

2005-04-29T09:48:00.000-04:00

Ok, I must be the luckiest girl in the world right now! I have said good-bye to Evreux and am now staying in the heart of Paris thanks to a wonderful friend. Yes, it's sunny, it's spring and I have a lovely apartment all to myself for the weekend in Paris' Marais, known to be a quarter for artists. I just had to share... can't get this smile off my face! Thanks, Julie!

It's now Sunday and I have indeed been living the life, though a bit à la bohème. I went to the market today and bought a pair of summer shoes made in Spain and the cutest French skirt ever! It was 25€ but I smiled and said 'mais, je parle français'---but I speak French--and got it down to 20. I still felt like it was a bit much for me, but---I put on my shoes and French skirt and went to stand by notre-dame and sang---made 11€ in 10 minutes! Not bad... and then as I was walking back to my fab flat for the weekend, a bouquiniste (person who sells books by the Seine) stopped me and asked me to watch her books while she ran to the restroom. So, there I stood, tourists walking by, sounding very silly as they ask 'do you speak English?' and then I explain how I came to be there. They lady eventually came back. I thought maybe she'd pay me, but she was poorer than myself. So I just smiled and chalked it up to another very Parisienne experience---and one only someone local can have!

Teaching in France

2005-04-17T13:05:00.000-04:00

In response to a comment I recieved I am going to elaborate on what it is like to teach here. But first I want to add a disclaimer: your experience in France varies from department to department and city to city. Some Académies are run very well, and others have no idea what they are doing, or what you are doing for that matter. My department falls somewhere in the middle. I only ended up working 8 hours a week, though our contract is for 12, and before the Christmas break I worked even less. (Yes, I am SOOO on vacation, here!!) I teach in Primaire (ages 8-11), but because they needed to give me more hours, I also worked in the Maternelles (ages 3-5). And though everyone's experience is differnt, I can tell you that I ended up experiencing a bit of everything. What I mean is this: one of my schools I literally assist the teacher--say things in 'American' (it got on my nerves at first, but I've gotten used to it. To me British English and American English is still just ENGLISH!) Anyway, I'd just help out whenever they needed it (and sometimes when they didn't--I was paired with an Irish lady--who ended up being a good friend of mine--but like she really needs an assistant! She CAN speak English!!) So these types of classes required no prep work on my part.
The other kind of class was where I was alone with a group of ten kids at a time. I liked and disliked this for several reasons. I liked it because I could be creative and do my own lessons and 'practice being a teacher'. I didn't like it because I would have a hard time getting the kids to listen sometimes and the teachers didn't care what I was doing. I put a lot of thought into my lessons (and I had no real guide as to what level to teach; had to figure that out on my own), and would have liked if someone had asked to see what kind of lessons I did with the kids.
The third type of group was with the Maternelles. This age, though super cute, can be difficult to find lessons for. We just did simple songs and stories. For one of the Maternelles, I was in their classroom with the teacher and came in for the English lesson. In another maternelle, I was all alone with the kids in the dortoire--where they sleep! So obviously the kids were distracted by not being in a classroom setting and I had no chalkboard to use. These kids tended to not only get distracted but were disruptive and didn't learn much. I learned early on not to let the kids run to the restroom; if one goes, they all follow.
As to what I taught, well, I went over as many basic things I could think of. We were given their cirriculum for CM2, when they are first tested on English, but for most of my classes this was 2 or more years away! So, I tried to glean from the CM2 cirriculum what I could. I taught numbers, colors, the weather, parts of the body. Songs were always the best things to use. I recommend bringing some children's book and a cassette or CD of nursery rhymes/songs. These are what work best. I also took on a few classes at the IUFM, where older students are learning to become teachers. Their level of English was from decent to non-existent. I was quite shocked actually, because a lot of them had something called an habillitation which means that they have a good level of English. Hah! My Aunt Fanny!! I had several classes with this group working on Toungue Twisters (someone else thought it was a good idea, I did not) and trying to get them to speak to me in English. English reading material is scarce, but I did manage to find a few articles from Time magazine. But immediately they said it was too difficult. Talk about frustrating!!
Anyway, though the mysteries of how ANYTHING gets accomplsihed in France will remain a mystery---like how does going on strike actually change anything???--you figure it out as you go along. The assistantsinfrance website was my lifeline before I left, and when I needed advice while I was here, it was good for that as well. I hope I haven't discouraged future assistants. Just letting you know that things can be as clear as mud, but also wonderful. I've met some wonderful people and have had experiences I wouldn't change for the world (just read more of my blog). Also, you don't work very much, even if you have the full 12 hours, so there is plenty of time to travel, eat the most heavenly food on earth, and discover France! Bonne chance and feel free to email me with more questions!!

My Birthday in Brittany

2005-04-16T14:52:00.000-04:00

I was invited by one of my friends to visit her and her husband in Brittany, on the west coast of France. This region is known for its Celtic roots and fierce pride. The Bretons are so proud in fact, that there is a portion of them who consider themselves more Breton than French and would like to break away into a separate country!
So I arrived in Rennes and was met by my friend Sarah and her husband, Farid. They took me around town and showed me things such as the Rue de Soif (Soif means thirst, and the street is covered with all kinds of bars and pubs). I also took in the architecture and some of the history. Evidently Rennes has been burned a few times over the centuries and parts of it has had to be rebuilt as many times...
The next day we went to the coast to a town called St. Malo. It is a walled city, with tons of tiny streets to meander through, and after that, you can walk on the ramparts for terrific view of the water. We had planned to picnic on the beach, but forgot that the weather in Brittany is not always what you would like it to be, as it was raining. But fear not! Thanks to a kind café, we were able to picnic nice and dry inside. (Like that would ever happen in the States!)
Then we drove to the next town over called Dinard. From Dinard you can see St.Malo, a walled fortress, just off shore. We walked along the beach, and along stone walls that lined it. There are huge rock formations on the beach that are just spectacular up close! On some bits, you can see mussels (or moules in French) lined on the rocks. Also along the beach are lovely Breton houses that look like some of the New England houses I've seen pictures of... There were a couple that I wouldn't mind living in someday. :)
After the coast, we headed back to Rennes for my birthday dinner. We had falafal in a fanastic restaurant and then had cake made by Farid when we got back. My friends gave me earrings and a French poetry book---btw, I am able to read in French now. Not perfectly, but I can do it without getting a headache over trying to translate everything.
The best was saved for last, as we went to Mont Saint Michel the next day, also on the coast. This I swear is the most magical place on earth! You drive out to the edge of the countryside, and then suddenly in the distance, you see a small mountain, crowned with what looks to be a castle, sitting in the middle of nowhere. As you approach, you realize it is a church on this mountain, surrounded by a small village. When you enter, you enter back in time---bar the 21st century shopping... but the streets are like from a fairy tale: small shops with their wooden signs swinging in the breeze, quaint houses with magical gardens hidden behind gates. And so you continue up the hill till you can see what you thought was a castle is really an abbey. You climb ancient stone steps, taking in the view around you---you see water blended with sand (low tide) and in the distance the farm life that you drove through to get to this magical kingdom. The abbey is wonderful. It is still a working abbey, and in fact I saw one of the sisters while I was there. The stones are somber, but magestic and speak of centuries of service. It is a peaceful place, sitting high on this hill with its fairytale village... I could have stayed forever in Mont Saint Michel, but alas, the rain eventually drove us away...
All in all, I had a very nice birthday. And as I think this will be my last exploratroy trip before I head home, I think it was a good one. And a good birthday present.

Spring in France

2005-04-11T09:19:00.000-04:00

Oh, how lovely the weather is!! Spring has sprung here in Normandy, and it is wonderful! The hill where I live is covered with tiny daisies, where the birds come every morning to hunt for worms. There are lots of birds in this area, and their song fills the skies. Also, flowers are in bloom everywhere... walking down streets in Saint Michel, you see mostly unremarkable walled fences, but if you peek through a gate, you inevitably see lucious flower gardens! Tulips are a favorite flower here, but I see all kinds. And every Frenchie must have a green thumb, for I haven't seen one garden not immaculately tended!
So, going on a mini-break this week to enjoy friends and lovely weather---going to Bretagne to Rennes, and then St. Malo on the coast, and then the famous Mont Saint Michel!
I'll post more when I get back!

Les Andelys

2005-04-03T10:17:00.000-04:00

Took a day trip last weekend to a small town in Normandy called Les Andelys. I left early from Evreux, and took a bus. But, this being France, traveling was a bit more complicated than a simple bus ride. The bus took me to Vernon--pretty city by the way--with a château--if I had had more time I would have stayed a while--so stopped in Vernon at the Gare Routier, which is where the buses arrive and depart from. I was not certain whether leg 2 was a bus or train, so found my way to the main gare and asked. Turned out to be a ten minute train ride. So got on the train, which only took me as far as Gaillon-Aubervoye. I knew I had to take a bus from there to Les Andelys. Thank goodness for the kindness of strangers, as I asked a lady who was getting off at Gaillon how to get to Les Andelys. She pointed me to a non-descript bus, just in front of the gare. All good! So it was 3€ and a nice bus ride through 2 small villages later that I arrived at Les Andelys. Now, it being Saturday, there isn't much transportation to the out of the way areas like I was in, so I was sure to ask about getting back. They told me the ONLY bus back to Gaillon was at 17:25 (5:25 pm), and in THEORY--more on that later--I had a bus to catch back to Evreux at 17:49. Now, it was only a 15 minute bus ride, so I figured I'd be ok...
So after another kind stranger helped me get a bus to Le Petit Andely, I headed for the tourist office. Now, normally, in most places, Saturday could be considered a touristy day, so shouldn't the tourist office be open? Bien sûr---mais, non. They had closed at 1:30, and it was now near to 2. So what was I to do? Here I am in a strange town, and no idea how to get around! Then, I noticed one of those wooden shadow boxes, with info on the town next to the office. In the States, these kind of things are usually locked, but this one wasn't. And there were some maps hanging up in it, so I took one. :) Hey, there WAS another one still there... All good. So with my stolen map, I head up to the main reason I came to Les Andelys, Château Gaillard.
I climbed this huge hill to the ruins of an old castle built by Richard the Lionheart. Not only are there sizeable ruins left, but the view is fantastic. Les Andelys sits on the Seine (same river that flows through Paris), and from on top of the hill, you can see for miles. Again, wish I could post pics.... One thing that did strike me as interesting about this particular castle, is that the main feasting hall was not very big. It was about the size of a large kitchen, actually. And the tower where the living quarters were was rather small as well. I guess because it was used mainly as a garrison, rather than a residence.
So after some time taking pictures and soaking up the history (I even took a chalky stone that used to be part of a wall as a souvenir), I headed back into town; I liked Le Petit Andely because the houses were quite old, and it had an enchanted go-back-in-time feel to it. But I also had my rendez-vous for the bus in a few hours, so headed into Les Andelys proper. This part of town had its appeal too. To me, it seemed a lot of the architecture that was old (there were also modern shopping centers, etc) was built in the 1700's or early 1800's. So, really, in European terms, not so old. I visited a few churches and one museum.
After wandering and having a coffee, it was time for the bus. It arrived on time,and I got to the gare with five minutes to spare--only to learn that the internet site that said there was a bus from Gaillon to Evreux LIED! No such connection existed! I had to wait another hour and a half in this gare in the middle of nowhere to take a train to Mantes la jolie (which is NOT 'jolie'(pretty)) to change for another train to Evreux. So, luckily unmolested and hour and a half later, I got on the train and headed home.
Overall, I had a good day, I just got frustrated by the transportation... But if you have a CAR in France, I do recommend taking a day trip to Les Andelys. If nothing else, you get to say you stood where Richard the Lionheart once stood. :)

Just a little over a month left...

2005-03-23T08:39:00.000-05:00

I am actually beginning to feel sad about leaving France. It has been one heck of an adventure, and I have made some wonderful friends and seen some amazing places. I do have a few more tricks up my sleeve before I say 'au revoir'... I am going to visit a friend I met here at the IUFM (where I live) in Rennes in Brittany, and then we are going to Mont Saint Michel and St. Malo beach. I also may have an audition in April... but I will let on more as things develop.
There was an american assistant living here at the IUFM with me. We became good friends and then I was so upset when she moved to Paris (well, not really, I can always visit her in Paris). But I was afraid I would have no one to talk to here at the IUFM. But after she left, the other internes (French) started talking to me; trying to speak English as I tried to speak French. And they have turned out to be really sweet, though they seemed distant at first. And because of them, I have definitely improved my French.
Two girls, both named Virginie invited me to Rouen for St. Patrick's Day. So we left in the evening and had a few drinks at a busy pub and came home. We drove out to Rouen, and I love road trips in foreign countries! You really get to see how things are laid out (even in the dark) and the differences between French and American roadways. One major difference that the US could learn from is being able to use your bank card to pay toll roads. It is genius! Just put your card in, type your pin, and bam! You can be on your way again (just don't forget your card before you hit the gas!)!
I have also developed somewhat of a French palette. I crave cetain cheeses--Roquefort has become my friend. :) Also I adore their biscottes, basically little pieces of toast, that I think is considered strictly gourmet in the US, though they are only .70 a box here... Most of how they eat I can copy in the US, just not as cheaply. Except the bread. There is no way to replicate the delicious breads of the boulangeries!!
Anyway, all this food talk is making me hungry. I am just trying to enjoy my time here, and hope I can come back in the not too distant future...

Bella Italia: Milan

2005-03-14T09:24:00.000-05:00

Milan was definitely not the highlight of my trip to Italy, but it is worth mentioning. I had very little money by this point, so I could definitely not indulge in the famous Milanese shopping experience. Though I did meet some Aussie girls who were into the shopping thing, so I went around with them for a bit. They were also my roomies at the hostel--which was the worst hostel I have stayed in, btw. No locks on doors, dirty, etc... After bemoaning the fact that I had no money to spend, I did some other exploring... The one thing that I had really wanted to see was La Scala, the world famous opera house, and another mark on what is becomming my Maria Callas pilgrimmage. (I visited her grave at Père Lachaise in Paris, saw her appartment in Paris...) I stood in the opera box, just looking at the stage for at least ten minites. Then I left, and came back one more time. I don't know what it was about the place, it is just a theater, but it is magical... I also went to the local museum, which has quite a wide variety of things to see.... everything from Egypt to Picasso, to its highlight, Michelangelo's last unfinished work, La Pietà. This beautiful peice has been left, barely emerging from the creator's idea. The faces of Mary and Christ are poignantly void, yet living, as Christ's legs are finely chiseled, as if frozen during the process of coming to life. Very lovely... I also saw Milan's Natural History museum, which was quite good. I especially liked the huge T-Rex hovering like in Jurassic Park. :)
But, as I said, Milan wasn't as romantic as the other cities I visited in Italy. I am glad I went, if just for the fact that I got to see La Scala. So, I left after two days and took the arduous seven hour train ride back to Paris... leaving snow and just a glimpse of the Alps behind me.

Poems

2005-03-02T04:41:00.000-05:00

Siena
Walking under the Tuscan sky,
A palette of colors to make you sigh;
Golden reds kiss gentle blues,
The sun’s tones soften harsher hues.
Ancient streets that wind to nowhere,
And old traditions for locals only to share.
Grand palazzos from times past,
And pictures taken to make it last.

A Vignette
(Palazzo del Campo, Siena)

Children playing,
Catches an artist’s eye;
He draws a sketch,
Under a clear blue sky.

Florence
Walking amidst history
Like so long ago longed for.
Statues cry out from the past,
Seeing a world that exists no more.

Bella Italia: Tuscany!

2005-02-20T04:20:00.000-05:00

We took a bus ride to Siena, arriving in a small town that had literally been there for centuries. A mostly Medieval city, there are narrow winding streets that open up to beautiful views of the city and surrounding Tuscany. Like everywhere in Italy, the sunlight brushes life and color into the buildings it touches, creating an unreal effect of walking from austere black and white into glorious Technicolor. One of my favorite spots in Siena is the famed Palazza del Campo, where every year they cover this huge plaza with sand and have a horse race around it, just as they have done for centuries. People hang out in this square at all hours of the day and eat and talk. It seems odd to see people sitting in an empty square when you first arrive, but after a day or so, you find yourself among them, basking under the Tuscan sun! There are lots of wonderful restaurants in Tuscany. The cheaper ones are just as good as the more expensive counterparts. If you want a homey feel, look for the osterias, usually family owned. Also, you can find nice carry out food at the trattorias.
After Siena, we headed to Florence. Best known for the Medici legacy and the Pontevecchio, this city attracts tourists at all times of the year. Art is in every nook and crany of this city. The buildings are austere but grand, and the sculpture is life like, looming over the tourists like long forgotten gods. The churches in Tuscany are magnificent. In France they are mostly made of grey granite. But in Italy, they are made of marble. In Siena it was white and black, but in Florence, the marble is a soft green, pink, and white. Inside, the Italian churches are magnifcently ornate. Huge sculptures, gilt lined décor, intricate marble floor work and paintings to take your breath away. Also significant in Florence is the markets. They are famed for the leather they sell. My friend was on the hunt for a long length leather coat and finally found one that suited her, while I settled for a leatherbound sketch book. All in all, Tuscany was my favorite place in Italy; settled and soft, it welcomes you like a long lost friend...

Bella Italia: Roma!

2005-02-16T12:50:00.000-05:00

OK, so I flew with the cheap Irish airline, Ryanair to Rome. Despite being inconveniently located an hour outside of Paris (a 13e bus ride), the airline was fine. I met a nice Australian couple on the flight and that kept me entertained. They were actually born in Italy and were going back to see their childhood villages--very interesting... So, for those of you that remember me going to Great Britian for the first time four years ago, you may recall I mentioned a friend I met who was from Rome. Well ever since that trip we emailed here and there and I kept saying that someday I'd go to see her in Rome. Well, the day finally came! Claudia picked me up from the airport in a sporty Miata and we jumped head first into the world famous crazy Italian traffic. It is so crazy that when she was in New York some time back, people were honking at her for driving like a maniac!! In New York!! So, safety belt firmly in place, I just started taking in the sights... there were several things that struck me right away. The first is that Rome isn't as pristine as Paris. There is litter about and gypsies that beg everywhere. And the thing about the gypsies is that they don't work ever, but beg and steal and somehow end up rich. It is a big ruse... I saw all kinds of interesting ploys---a bundle made to look like a baby, a bad violinist who gets his cute daughter to hold out the cup for money... crazy. But that was the negative side, the positive was the buildings and their colors. The sun is beautiful in Rome, and the buildings only help to enhance this. They are often painted in gold and red hues, kissed by green shutters and dripping with flowers or plants. The sun highlights these Tuscan colors and brings the city to life.
Eventually we got to Claudia's appartment. I met her parents and instantly liked them. They were very sweet and tried to speak English whenever they could. Their hospitality was unmatched. I felt like part of the family, and ate wonderfully as well. Always there was pasta and salad, the taste slightly different to the American counterparts. And they always concluded a meal with fruit. There was also always wine on hand and great conversation. We talked about everything from arts to culture to politics. Claudia's mom is an artist and her dad a musician, so we got on famously!
Now on to Rome itself... the first day, Claudia and I just went out to get a feel for the city. The first thing I noticed when we got to the center was how many tourists there are, even at this time of year!! There are so many people that you are constantly bumping into someone, and you never hear a sentence in the same language in a row! So first stop was the famed Spanish Steps. Claudia said in the spring that they line it with flowers and it is beautiful... I thought that even with just the sunlight they were nice... then on to the Trevi Fountain. I think this was one of my most favorite landmarks I saw. It is HUGE, made by Bernini (I think) and beautiful. I must say that all the fountains in Rome are tempting to jump in and take a swim. All of them have crystal clear water with blue bottoms---don't know how they keep people out of them in the summer! (and I guess that also explains the scene in La Dolce Vita...)
We also saw the Pantheon that day. A bizzare round building that though it is a consecrated church now, you couldn't help but feel its roots in paganism (also, I finished reading Angels and Demons shortly after my arrival...) Next day, we got a late start and went to the Sistine Chapel. Now, according to the Romans (modern day ones) this is a suicide mission, in terms of your patience, because there is usually a line a mile long around the Vatican! Well, I will let you in on a little secret, if you go in the off season, arrive around 11, you probably can walk right in. BUT the catch is that the other museums that go along with your ticket close at two, so you may have to rush to the Sistine to see the other marvels at Vatican....
After seeing Michelangelo's famed frescoes, we went to St. Peter's Basiiica. This church is easily the most impressive in the world! (And this coming from a girl who has seen Notre-Dame in Paris and the chapel at Versailles...) It is overwhelmingly huge! The Altar at the front towers above you a good length of an Olympic swimming pool. Plus there is art after art---sculptures, frescoes, even Michelangelo's Pietà resiedes here, and amongst all this glory, it looks small.
After seeing the glories of the Vatican, we went to Ancient Rome, and took breathtaking pictures of the Forum (I wish I had the teachnology again to post pictures!!!). Though what's left is crumbling rocks and a few graceful pillars, in sunset, with the Colosseum in the background, you can picture what it may have been like to be an ancient Roman.
The modern day Romans seem to live a fast paced live style---work hard and eat well. Two of their crowning achievements are café latte and gelato. Coffee is made to perfection in Italy---haven't met one I didn't like! And Gelato, or ice cream, is heaven. Ben and Jerry, eat your heart out! Though the flavors aren't as varied as the American counterparts, they are obviously chosen with care---nioccola (i hope I remeber that right) is hazlenut, and that combined with a cream and coffee ice cream is purely wonderful!!!
So, after a few days of seeing fast paced Rome, it was time to go to place that had captured my imagination since I first saw (and read!) 'Under the Tuscan Sun.' On to Bello Tuscano....

Adventures in Normandy

2005-01-22T11:38:00.000-05:00

So I took my own advice and went adventuring! First stop was Caen, a city with loads of history... I went to a few churches and was planning on going to L'Abbaye des Hommes but I encountered my first truly rude French person ever at the Hotel de Ville where I was supposed to buy tickets for the tour. I misunderstood something she said and asked her to repeat it. Then she slipped immediately into English and told me I wasn't going to understand the tour because it was all going to be in French. (Duh!) I kept telling her basically that it was my problem whether or not I understood the tour and insisted that I wanted to buy a ticket. But she persisted in being a b---- and told me I could go to the church instead. Insulted and put off, I left, heading to the humble church. Well, what I found in the church surprised me andd nearly made up for her rudeness. For there, lo and behold was the tomb of William the Conquerer! So I dutifully took my picture of it and then headed to my next city... Which was Bayeux. Bayeux is one of the only cities in Normandy not bombed by the war (Found out btw, that it was our fault --the Allies--for the hideously modern buildings all around Normandy---we bombed all their train stations to keep the Nazis where we wanted them...) anyway Bayeux was beautiful, Gothic, Romantic, Fantastic! The Cathedral there is my favorite that I've seen in France, and I have seen my share of cathedrals! Also there is the famous Bayeux Tapestry --you follow signs to the Tapisserie, which to me sounded oddly like a place you can buy food... anyway, this 11th c marvel is LONG! It is over 230 feet long and very detailed. It is a woven account of how William the Conquerer in fact, conquered England (noticing an theme?)--made, ironically enough, by some of the very people he conquered, English monks. (If you aren't sure what I am talking about, watch the montage to Costner's 'Robin Hood'). So after that I made my way to the hostel I had reserved for the night. Upon entering, there was no one behind the desk, and just two other weary travelers trying to figure out where the proprietaire might have gone. Upon engaging them in conversation, I found out that they were from Sweden and couldn't speak French. They told me there was an unintelligable man in the back, so I wen to see if I could make sense of him--not knowing if they just couldn't understand French, or what. As it turns out, he was in fact impossible to understand. The man sat in a dark room, staring into space. When I asked him where might the proprietaire be, the best I could get was 'faire des cours', which means she went shopping. So I went back to the front room and chatted some more with the Swedish couple. Later on, we finally got our rooms... though I almost got locked out when I went to make a call. Seems the absent-minded proprietaire forgot to tell me that she closes the gates at 7:30. So I arrived just as lights were going out and pounded on the door. Luckily, the barely intelligable Frenchman was handy and let me in. A few moments later, I rescued the Swedish couple from being locked out as well... Next day, my new found friends invited me to go with them to the Normandy beaches. I figured I probably wouldn't have another chance to see them since you can't get there without an expensive tour bus or a car. And since I had neither of those resources to hand, I figured the next best thing was an adventure with strangers. They turned out to be very nice, about my age, and on a photography project of France. I am still boggled that one can drive from Sweden to France... (oh, and speaking of driving--did you know that in Sweden with all the various courses and paperwork it can cost around 1200€ to get a license!? That's like, 1700 dollars!!!!) Anyway, the beaches were very interesting. We went to Gold beach first, which is where the British landed. What's bizzare is that there are tanks still floating in the harbor. If one took a picutre, it would look as if the Allies were ready to land at that moment. Very eerie... and it seemed the area is a high tourist spot, as the beach is nice. But somehow, I can't imagine enjoying catching rays in the midst of an old war zone... Then we moved on to Omaha beach, which is set up similary to Arlington Cemetery, as this is where our brave lads from the States landed. This was a very creepy and sad place. The graves are lined up near the water and the day I was there was particularly cloudy and windy... so all you could hear was the wind from the sea, blowing across the thousands of gravestones... I was a bit proud to note that of the three recipients of the Medal of Honor buried there, two were from Virginia. Next we ventured to Pont de L'Hoc, which was left much as it had been sixty years ago. The place had cement compounds built into the ground that had been held by the Germans, but lots of them had been caved in by bombs. Where the bombs had missed the buildings, there are loads of craters, creating a landscape that is at once eerie and unrealistic; you can almost think you're on another planet, where the earth slopes all around... So, that was my weekend out and about in Normandy. It was loads of fun and very interesting... It also has encouraged me to try and go on more adventures in and around France! Bon voyage à moi!

New Year's Resolution

2004-12-29T20:39:00.000-05:00

I have enjoyed Christmas at my cousin's house. We opened presents, watched movies, and stuffed our faces--so I felt quite at home. I have less than a week left here in Bristol, and I am starting to think about going back to France. I think I needed a break to let me know how lucky I am to be living in Europe. I am looking forward to visiting my neighborhood boulangerie (place where you buy bread) and seeing all my school kids again. I am also looking forward to asserting my independence and spending time exploring the area around Evreux and embracing daily adventures. Also, just enjoying who I am and finding my way in the world. Whether or not that is to be France forever is yet to be seen. But just embracing the opportunities that are right there for me to take--like the fact that I can go to Paris anytime I want, even if it is just for the day. And believe me, just to walk around Paris is a treat! And I plan to see more countries in the next few months. I have a holiday in February and I hope to see Germany and Austria during that time... I still have a narrow budget, but it is also a now or never time in my life, and it is time to take advantage of being on this continent. And what a perfect time of year to come to all these conclusions! How many people can say that their New Year's Resolution is to enjoy French food and go see Germany, Austria, and Italy (this spring!)?! So I am ready to embrace the next four months and enjoy myself!! Happy New Year, everybody!

London and beyond France...

2004-12-11T11:55:00.000-05:00

I am now back in Bristol to spend the Christmas holidays with my cousin Cindy. I must admit I was ready for a break away from France. Sometimes you can get caught up in daily life even while living in a foreign country and it can be even more wearing because daily work gets compounded with homesickness... So I left France with a bit of relief, ready to enter an English speaking country again. And even though Britian is not the States, I still felt like I was coming home. Though I admit, for at least the first day, I was tempted to respond in French to shop keepers, etc. And sometimes I find myself searching for words in English because I am so used to asking for it in French!
So I got to London with not much money in my pocket, but still I was there. I stayed in a relatively inexpensive hotel. My first day I grabbed a map and headed out. I must say, I feel confident now that I could find myself around just about any city in the world now, as I have learned to navigate both Paris and London on my own. Anyway, one major difference between Paris and London is the size. London is massive compared to Paris, and the streets are so confusing! Because traffic goes in opposite directions, it is hard to get your bearings, as it relates to traffic. You simply have to stare your map down based on where streets lie and not the direction traffic is going. It can be quite a mind game!
So eventually I ended up at one of the most renowned landmarks in London, the Tower. It is included as part of the 'world heritage landmarks', which kind of gave me goose bumps to realize how important the Tower of London is to our world history, as for several hundred years, the most important monarchs in the world ruled from there and some of the most important patriots died there...
I will say that it is well worth the £13.50 to get in. (Or £10.50 if you are a 'student') The Yeoman warders are very entertaining and helpful. They are also very proud of their position and live within the Tower walls. I also noted that they are quite superstitious as chimes and things hung in most doorways to ward off ghosts. For surely ghosts abound here. In one of the chapels (sorry, the name escapes me right now), there were quite a few--in the hundreds at least--headless bodies buried under the chapel floor. About 150 years ago all the bodies were exhumed and the ones that could still be identified given proper burial. Now, how they did that, I have no idea nor want to know! But several queens of England are buried there including Anne Bolyn. Also, I saw the Crown Jewels of England--quite extraordinary. These priceless jewels are breathtaking. I especially liked Queen Victoria's small crown, just covered in diamonds! I also visited the Bloody Tower and Traitor's gate, where so many famous people took their last walk to their deaths... I saw other things there as well, but I think that gives you a taste of how interesting a place the Tower of London is. Without trying to sound too much like a guidebook, if ever you are in London, you must see it!
Also from the Tower, you can get some fabulous pictures of Tower Bridge, which so many people mistake as London Bridge. London Bridge is just up the way, and very nondescript. But thanks to (I think) Peter Pan, we all think of the Tower Bridge as London Bridge. Not so.

A little change is good

2004-11-26T05:34:00.000-05:00

Well, the roommate I spoke glowingly of earlier didn't work out. France is 'trés cher', and I couldn't afford paying rent and doing other things as well. So, for a time, I stayed with a nice Irish lady who teaches in one of the schools I am in. And now I am living at the teacher's college; This place is interesting because it isn't exactly a proper college, like we know of in the States. It is more of a gathering place for young teachers to live, work and study. As I understand it, the student teachers have classes there, but there are also lots of other activities there that I don't know about. I am staying in a dorm like room; with new furniture and a sink. The showers and restroom are around the corner, as well as a kitchen and large screen TV. The TV I have really learned to count as a luxury here because everyone who has one, has to pay 100E a year in taxes! There is even a police that comes and checks to see if you have paid your TV tax! Anyway, it is not bad at the IUFM.
And now I have another American friend living there with me, so it is even better.

Guy Fawkes' Night

2004-11-07T08:56:00.000-05:00

So I have come all the way to France to learn about a British custom... Guy Fawkes' night (I appologize if that is misspelled). Anyway, on November 4, the people of England have a bonfire and fireworks to celebrate the killing of Guy Fawkes, who tried to blow up Parliament in the 19th century. Kids make an effigy and wheel 'him' around asking for money for fireworks for that evening. Then, there is a bonfire and the effigy is thrown in. At least, this is how I THINK this is celebrated... Last night I was invited to such an evening, thrown by and for the English speaking population of Evreux. There were lots of English women there who married French men, and even some Americans. They were all very nice, and it is lovely to find such a community here. So we ate hotdogs, had cidre, and 'gateaux', cakes. Then there was a bonfire and fireworks, all in celebration of hanging, drawing, and quartering this chap, Guy Fawkes. I wonder how they discribe this greusome holiday to the kids????

US Elections

2004-11-07T08:51:00.000-05:00

Well, writing this after the fact, I must say that I am very disappointed that Bush won, and even more disappointed that Kerry conceded so quickly... But having said that, I did have a wonderful time election night. I went to Rouen and stayed at an assistants' house. There were other Americans there as well as some French people. Everything was quite diplomatic in fact, because we could all openly discuss our political systems and ask questions. It was a lot of fun and very informative. I wish all American-French meetings could be so open. Anyways, we watched CNN all night long, hoping against hope that Kerry would pull through... Oh well, at least we only have four more years of Bush and then we never have to acknowledge him as President again!!!

Figuring out the French

2004-10-26T11:04:00.000-04:00

Evreux is touchingly beautiful at times and also a 'concrete nightmare' as I have heard someone call it. The sunlight here glistens and changes in an instant; often it is like the very perfect fall days in the mountains of Virginia, where the sky is blue, and the sunlight kisses the leaves with just the right amount of light...
After walking the city for a few weeks, I have come to some conclusions. One, these are very proud people. They are proud of their way of life, their food, their country. And they have that to be proud of. They have easy work hours, food that would make anyone forget their diet, and lovely scenescapes. But amid the beauty, there is also horrible city appartment buildings and sprawling city. But this ugliness is in the face of worse ugliness, WWII. Where there is concrete, there had been a bomb. It seems to speak to today, to be defiantly there in all its horror where people can work and live, instead of remain the ashes of a nearly forgotten war (at least forgotten to many of those back home...)
Souviens toi 'We remember you' is everywhere. There evidently was a strong resistance here to the Germans in the war, and they lost a lot of people to it. I even came across a playground dedicated to les enfants de la guerre 'the children of the war', for it seems that even the little ones fought against the Nazis and died for freedom. And unlike a lot of our kids in the States, it seems the French are taught about the sacrifices of their country more liberally. This is a very blunt country... the cemeteries are just lines of tombs, no effort for beauty... and even the language is blunter than English. Je suis désolé literally translates to 'I am desolated', but really just means 'Sorry'. Or J'ai faim which literally means 'I am famished' just means 'I'm hungry'. I am not sure if we are richer for having the different words to imply the intensity of certain sensations, because since it is integral in the French language, they by nature live intensely and for the moment. I pass a certain bum on the streets daily who has a sign saying he's a medium. Now, in the States he would be ignored and written off as either crazy or a nuisance. But time and time again when I pass him, he has honest looking people sitting there on his stoop, interested in what he has to say. I am half-tempted to talk to him myself! This is proof again of the French living life with both eyes open, eager for the next thing.
In conclusion, though I have drawn these differences between us and the French, I also think we are similar. We are both proud nations, proud of what we've accomplished. Both countries think their language is superior and their country is more beautiful (I hope we can all at least agree that the French DO have better food...) We are like lovers that are too much alike and so squabble and disagree, and are secretly jealous of each other, though no one would admit that. I think we could learn to relax a little more from the French and perhaps they could learn a little English... But in the end, we are two halves of the same whole: we both have been through civil and world war, have lost and gained a lot in the process, and struggle to improve our world each day. Also, I find that they are not so much anti-American as anti-Bush... and half our own country feels that way! I find too many instances of them copying us to think that they hate us... There are lots of American TV series aired here, they have Star Academy (like American Idol), Queer Eye, but in Paris (and it is SOOOO much funnier in French!). They have our brands, though of course most of their high fashion is superior. And they have our music; I hear American music everywhere... So next time you are quick to judge your French brother, remember that he IS your brother, and if you just try, you will find common ground.

Le marché

2004-10-17T12:20:00.000-04:00

I went to the weekly marché Saturday, and felt like I was truly French. I purchased probably the freshest vegetables EVER! I bought carrots, cauliflower, radishes, and tomatoes. Then I went home and cooked up a yummy veggie soup. You may be interested to know that the climate effects cooking. The veggies only cooked for about 10 minutes and were all soft. I could of sworn that in the States it takes almost an hour to get veggies at an edible smooshy consistency! Anyway, I also picked up some fresh flowers at the market to spruce up the appartment.

Making progress

2004-10-14T17:51:00.000-04:00

I am really starting to settle in and enjoy my life here in France. Everyday there is something new to explore--and something yummy to eat! But have no fear, I walk EVERYWHERE and probably cover about 3-5 miles a day, including at least one hardy workout up a huge hill. I found the 'shortcut' up the hill today, a huge stone staircase--241 stairs, if you're interested. So I have no guilt whatsoever about eating the goodies here in France. :)
Today I signed up to use a practice room in the Ecole de Musique. It's a renovated monostary, and the original part of the monastary has been there since the 1600's. The inner part of the building is a square courtyard, with tiny arches all around. Cindy, it's like at Tintern where the monks washed, except you can still see where they filled the stone trenches with water. I'll take a picture at some point to show you what I mean. But the renovated rooms are spacious and lovely to sing in. I was put in Chambre 13, Berlioz's room--I thought the number appropriate for the composer... BUT let me tell you, the rooms are great! VCU, eat your heart out! For only about 10 dollars a year I have access to practice in a spacious room, with a music stand, mirror, working windows, and---miracle of miracles---an in tune piano! Plus there is a lovely view of the public garden, filled with flowers. God I love France!
Evreux overall is quite charming. There are some areas that are made of ugly cinderblock, but the area that I see everyday is quaint. Lots of tiny shops--oh, and the atrocious MacDonald's attached to the neighborhood theatre. Folks, there is nothing like this in the States! This McDo (as it's called here) is HUGE and very modern and posh-looking. No wonder they think Americans are all rich and fat!! But, besides that, there's lots of places to meander around and get lost in... And I love looking up at the hill (St. Michel, it's called) I walk everyday from the town, and see sheep grazing on the hillside. It's so---well, French!

Magic in Evreux

2004-10-09T06:16:00.000-04:00

I must say, I was feeling very homesick this morning... I even dreamed I was home last night, and I could give my Grandad a hug... But this morning, I found something that made me happy I was in France again. I was walking along, on the hunt for a baugette in Centreville. I came across the Saturday market. It's fantastic! Loads of fresh food, and people looking very French. Each with his or her basket, ready to haggle with the vendeurs. Plus loads of pretty flowers hanging in baskets, and a lone man, playing an accordian in the square. I said to myself, 'Voilà! This is France!' I didn't come prepared to buy food this morning, and I had just went grocery shopping last night... But trust me, next Saturday, I will be there with a basket and a few Euros of my own to buy legumes et fruits to my heart's delight!

Rouen and Evreux

2004-10-04T13:19:00.000-04:00

In Rouen, I finally got some sleep in a hotel, as hostels are IMPOSSIBLE to sleep in comfortably… The next day I explored Rouen. The center of Rouen is very quaint… lots of buildings built in the 14 and 1500s… To me, a lot of it looks like what I imagine parts of Germany to look like, but I guess it just looks like what it is—France! I went to the Musee des Beaux-Arts, and saw the third Monet of the Cathedral of Rouen (the other two were in the Musee D’Orsay). So I now have the complete collection! ;) Great to be able to take pictures in museums… I met a Vietmenese fellow who talked my ear off about language… but he was nice enough. I liked this museum… It doesn’t have as many well-known works as the museums in Paris, but the atmosphere is comfortable. Really I was just killing time until another assistant arrived in Rouen. I met Andi later that afternoon. She took the train in from her town. We walked all over Rouen, and saw the Jeanne D’Arc Museum. Around 5 we became hungry, but it’s impossible to eat dinner this early! All the shops only serve drinks until about 7! So it seems to me that everyone gets drunk, and THEN eats dinner… hmmm… well, if it works! So we wandered around, half-starved, for a few more hours. At last around 7:30 we came upon a restaurant we could afford. And it was the best meal I’ve had in France (though it comes close to the Croque Monsieur I had in Paris). It was a Thai place, and I had couscous and meat—I say meat, because I’m not absolutely sure what kind of meat. But it was fantastic and I decided it was better not to ask!
The next day we had our first meeting with the other assistants. Andi’s contact, a cute French boy, picked us up at the gare (station) and brought us to the school. His name I think is Ian, though it’s pronounced ‘Yan’. He spoke French most of the time, but we could also drag some English out of him, as he is fluent in both, but wanted to help us practice our French. Interestingly, when he spoke, he had an English accent. I asked him where he was from and he insisted Rouen. When I explained he sounded English, he said his mother is Welsh and he studied in Birmingham. And it seems all the French who have studied English I’ve met, have studied either in England or with someone who is English. Therefore, they all have English accents! Does that mean all my students will have American accents? Will there be bunches of little French children sounding like me running around? Odd to think about, isn’t it?
Anyway, the meeting was completely in French, though they promised us the second half of the session would be in English. And I heard some other groups were afforded this privilege, but not mine. I must say, though I understand most of what’s being said, it gets wearing. You can’t just zone out, like when a native English speaker is talking and you still get the important parts. You have to be entirely focused, and it takes loads of energy. Plus most of the assistants are not fluent in French yet –that’s why we are here! So it was a little frustrating. The good news is that they want us to speak nearly entirely in English with the students. The only problem with this is the kids I will be teaching will have had little or no English prior to my coming there. How will they have a clue as to what I will be saying?? Well, I guess I will cross that bridge when I come to it, which at this point probably won’t be till next week. That’s right… because tomorrow I take care of banking and other things like that, and then I have to observe other teachers… so I probably won’t be put in my class till next week… oh—you’ll hate me for this---and then a week after, I get a two week vacation! Gotta love the French!!

Finally I made it to Evreux. I feel like I have been traveling for ages! Audrey, my new roommate (or colocateur, as I learned in French) met me at the train station. I arrived at 11 in the morning, and I could have sworn it was late afternoon… bizarre. Anyway, her dad brought us to the apartment, which is very spacious. I have a very nice room with lots of places for storage and mirrors on every bureau. The bed is a little small and very hard—so I will have to find a foam mattress to compensate for that. But other than that, it is a lovely apartment.
I am learning to live conservatively as an American in France---with the water, the gas stove, electricity—all of these things are more expensive in France. That is hard to get used to, especially when in the States everything is right there when you need it, for however long you need it. Also, trying to figure out the bath---there is a tub, but a shower head as well that is connected to a flexible hose that rests on the tub… No shower curtain, yet I am clearly expected to take a douche—shower… hmmm… I finally got nerve up to ask Audrey, and she said you just sit and use the shower head… very strange—ok, as one living abroad you should say different. No. It’s strange… There is a washing machine, but no dryer, so one has to use racks and be creative to get larger and heavier things dry—like the back porch. We have a back porch, overlooking some nice trees and grass… a note about grass in France: everywhere you see it, you see ‘pelouse reposer’—the grass is resting…. How long does grass rest? And why EVERYWHERE? I haven’t seen a single place where you can sit on the grass yet! But on the plus side, I can hear the bells from the ancient cathedral a few blocks away. This morning it was very lovely, and I felt very French waking up in my very French town.

lesson in music...

2004-10-04T13:18:00.000-04:00

The next day, as I had said, I went to the Louvre. Though it is impressive, I liked the Musee D’Orsay better. Perhaps because I was so tired… the massive amounts of tourists there makes it even more overwhelming. I feel like I’m somewhere between a tourist and a resident—it’s strange. I have my feet in both worlds. I’m exploring Paris for the first time as a tourist, but I know that I will have the opportunity to return to Paris many times over the next seven months, so I sorta live here. Very strange…
My last day in Paris I went again to Montematre, but this time on business. I had a rendezvous with a voice teacher I had been put in contact with through my English teacher, and then through her friend, who is also a singer in France. At first, I thought I just didn’t know how to work the door system—it’s a bit complicated if you are not used to it. There’s a ‘secret’ button somewhere either on the door or the frame that allows you to walk into a small hallway. Then you must press the button of the corresponding person you wish to see. And it’s difficult to tell if you hold down the button to let them talk, or let go… and then I realized that maybe she wasn’t there as I couldn’t get a response either way. So I went to a local phone and called her. Turned out she had 3 pm written instead of 2, but she was only a few blocks away and on her way back… so while I waited I found a little shoppe and bought a meringue---yum!
The lesson went very well. I was quite encouraged, especially since I’ve been fighting vocal fatigue since I arrived. But she said I have a lovely quality to my voice and nice expression, and that I ‘can do something with it’ (which I hope means I can become a rich and famous opera singer :P But who knows!)…. But the downside is that the lessons are tres cher---about 85 American dollars a session. Ouch! Especially on my salary. So I hope once I get the CAF (gov’t help with rent), I can afford lessons. Until then I probably can afford one a month… But I think it’s imperative that I continue to study voice, and especially with a teacher in Paris who works at the Conservatoire, so it’s definitely worth it for my future…. Anyway, sorry to go on about the lesson. It’s just that it’s one of my reasons for coming all the way to France. My number one dream is to be a successful opera singer in Europe… These are the first steps to make that a reality.
The next day I met Juli, the singer who put me in contact with the teacher. She was very nice and has a lovely flat in Paris. We went for coffee and had a nice chat about our experiences in France. I have much to accomplish before I feel completely settled. Once I get my carte de sejour, I should feel a lot better… anyway, she helped me lug all my baggage to a taxi stand, and from there I was headed to Rouen. (I must say, the French people and others have been very helpful with my luggage. I’ve had many a gentleman say ‘Mademoiselle, s’il vous plait, laissez-moi’)

2004-10-04T12:27:00.000-04:00

Rouen

2004-10-04T12:25:00.000-04:00

Out of tune clock, which makes Rouen charming...

2004-10-04T12:24:00.000-04:00

Cathedral d'Evreux

2004-10-04T12:23:00.000-04:00

Moi, in Evreux!

2004-10-04T12:22:00.000-04:00

My appartment is somewhere in the middle there...

2004-10-02T14:06:00.000-04:00

View of Sacre-Coeur from the Eiffel Tower

2004-10-02T14:05:00.000-04:00

Sacre-Coeur in Montmatre

2004-10-02T14:03:00.000-04:00

The Eifffel Tower, biensur ;)

2004-10-02T14:01:00.000-04:00

Tintern Abbey in Wales
I must say about this place... There is something here that speaks to the soul. It seems God has left His imprint on this place, for as you walk aorund, you see the world green and rich around you. It's a perfect bledning of time--eternal in the stone and the hills that have been there for centuries. The heavens are open to you;, as there is no roof--no barrier between you and God and nature. The walls tower high above you, but protect you and make you awestruck that they have stood there for so long. It's a wonderful place, and one of the most favorite thatr I have visited. Thanks Cindy. ;)

2004-10-02T14:00:00.000-04:00

Chepstow Castle in Wales

Paris and then some...

2004-10-02T13:55:00.000-04:00

After Notre-Dame, I felt it necessary to find Victor Hugo’s house…. Well, as it turned out, his house was actually an apartment. And what a lovely one it was… He was one of the fortunate writers that was rich in his lifetime. A very eclectic home, he was considered very kind and respected by all.
For lunch, I had my first Croque Monsieur. Let me tell you, I had no idea that bread, ham, and cheese can taste so wonderful! It melted in my mouth! And I have since found out, that many people believe their first corque in France is the best one…
Well, after a day alone, I was a little more comfortable. Paris is a beautiful city, and it’s history intrigues you, as it’s architecture and atmosphere welcomes you… And so I went back to the hostel and as I tried to call my singer friend in France, I noticed a girl next to me talking on the phone about assistant type stuff… so I asked her when she got off the phone, and biensur, she is an assistant! So we had dinner and made plans to walk around Paris together the following day…
First on the agenda was searching out the English bookstore Shakespeare and Co. owned by none other than Walt Whitman’s grandson! This eclectic shop is found near Notre-Dame. Packed ceiling to floor with books, it’s a book lover’s dream! Especially one a wee bit homesick for something—anything—in English! I am glad that I have stuffed my suitcases with a few English books here and there… it is very necessary for one’s sanity to be able to read and write in one’s own language now and then!
So, then we went to meet the other assistants at one of the local hostels. It was nice to meet other assistants, but they obviously had more money and wanted to eat at the crème de la crème places, and my buddy and I couldn’t afford to do so…

En Paris....

2004-09-25T05:17:00.000-04:00

For those of you waiting to hear from me, sorry it has taken so long to post again! I won't be able to get pictures up until after I am settled in Evreux. Je suis desolee...
Well, my adventures in Paris began when I arrived at Gare du Nord. I had it in my head that I should stay in a hotel my first two nights, and was going to take RER to Louvres (not to be confused with THE Louvre...) Well enough, I got my billet (ticket) and headed down there. I was not prepared for the pop-up ticket in the turnstyle and ended up losing it. So I had to buy another (7e short by now...) So I buy my ticket after being frustratingly locked in the train area, as you need a ticket to get in and out. I kept my cool up until this point. I was confidently approaching people in French until I was stuck in the train area and screamed out a pathetic "Help!" But to no avail--I merely got the French stare down and had to continue on my way... So by this time I am exhausted, but I know a cushy hotel room is waiting for me. So I give it one more go. And the moment before I step on the train, I don't see my stop listed, and I am too tired to risk getting lost. So what do I do? Get a cab, damn the expense (only cost me 15e, btw), and got to the only hostel I knew I still had a reservation for. So, here I am in a cheap hostel, feeling tired and miserable. I called home, and my poor dad was worried about how awful I sounded. But I managed to sleep that first night... So much for my first night in Paris!
The next day it got much better. I decided to brave it, and face the world and see what I could discover. When you feel isolated and alone, what does a girl do? Go shopping! So the first thing I bought was un peu cher sac (a little expnsive bag--30 e) to carry my day to day stuff in. Then I headed to the place that had always captured my imagination--Notre-Dame Cathedral....

That evening I met another assistant, and we became instant buddies. We went all around Paris. We went to the Musee D'Orsay, which was my favorite place in Paris. It was so great to flip through my photos and see all these famous works, right at my fingertips! I saw works by Van Gogh, Toulouse-Latrec, Rodin, Degas... c'est fantastique!
That evening we went to Sacre-Coeur Cathedral on Montematre, on a huge hill in Paris. One can see for miles... Montematre is the well-known area of artists and everything ‘a la boheme’. It was a beautiful night, and we climbed the hill to Sacre-Coeur, which looks over Paris… This was my favorite night in Paris… after enjoying this view, we headed back into the city and went to the Eiffel Tower, which is even more magical at night. We went to the first floor, which is evidently what the Parisiens do (we heard comments of the like). The city at night, from the grandest tower in the world, is AMAZING! On a clear night, the city is awash in gold, shimmering in romance and beauty… amid the golden lights you can spot out a few landmarks, and the river Seine shimmers like a very precious necklace, encircling the city...
The next day I tackled the Louvre... Honestly, I didn't enjoy it as much as D'Orsay, but it still was impressive. I of course saw the highlights---Venus de Milo, Wings of Victory, and biensur, the Mona Lisa.
After my assistant friend left Paris, I went to Pere-Lachaise cememtery, the most famous address in Paris. I saw the famous graves of Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt and my personal pilgrimage to Maria Callas.... Also in the cemetery (though I didn't get that far) is Jim Morrison, Bellini, Rossini, and others....
(I feel like I'm rushing about Paris, but I am paying to use the internet... I promise to fill in the blanks later, when I can add pictures.)
After Paris, I went to Rouen, which is a charming city in and of itself. It capitalizes on being the city where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, but that's ok. We'll forgive them, as there isn't much else to brag about... Although the architecture here is lovely... lots of facades of old 14th and 15th century houses exist, making the city look German to me more than French. There is a charming clock tower that spans across a street that plays out of tune chimes... I can't wait to post pictures for everybody! Be patient, they are worth it!!!
Tomorrow I go to my town of Evreux. I'm a little wary as to whether I like it, as I've heard much was bombed during the war, and ugly cement buildings were built to replace l'histoire.... anyway, I will post more later!
Best wishes to everyone!!
Au revoir,
Emily

I've arrived!!

2004-09-17T12:18:00.000-04:00

Well, it's not France--not yet--but I'm merely a Channel away... I survived the crazy airports--nowadays you have to dump anything that is electronic (and hence valuable) in a little plastic bin so they can x-ray it. Then you chase it around the corner so you can collect your things and be paranoid that someone is going to grab your laptop. So I went through that twice---the flights were rather pleasant, if impossiblt to sleep on. I think I got a whopping hour's sleep on the way here... Then I took the Heathrow Express to Paddington Station---having major issues carrying all four of my heavy bags, but managing with a few very helpful Britons. :) Then, I got a cushy first class ticket to Bristol. Though, I must say, I didn't realize I had a first class ticket till I was already sitting in coach (and baggage was settled). But then I thought--what the hell--it will be worth it to drag my worldy possessions a few more feet and sit comfortable for the last hour or so of my journey... Then, at last, I got to see a freindly familiar face, my cousin Cindy. And so I'm sitting here now, drinking lovely English tea and trying to decide if I can make it till this evening to sleep, or if I must steal a nap sometime beforehand...

Oh, to be on the plane already!!!

2004-09-05T19:40:00.000-04:00

Less than two weeks away, and way too much to do! I must say, I find it ironic that the hurricanes that have swept through the east coast lately have French names--Gaston et Frances. What does that mean?? Anyway, I'm trying to squeeze a garage sale in between bad weather, doing it tomorrow, on Labor Day. It's wierd selling all my stuff. Sometimes I look at it all and say ,'geez, what a pack rat I am!' and others, 'can I part with that? I remember when---' And THEN, I think about WHY I'm selling/giving away stuff---I'm moving to France! And that's why I wish I was on the plane already... I feel like I'll never finish sorting through everything, that I need 'Clean Sweep' to come in and help me sell it off! But, it's mostly organized and with the help of a friend, I should come out with a small fortune. ;) Well, hope everyone is faring okay down south... one good thing about such bad weather, is that it's likely to be great weather when it's actually time to take off!!

The build up...

2004-08-25T17:29:00.000-04:00

A mere three weeks away from departure! Je suis tres heureuse! I am on the verge of selling my car, and besides that, I have nothing else tying me down here. I'm ready to be free and go after my dreams. My philosophy has always been to take the opportunities that come, because you really only have one life to live. So you must take risks and truly LIVE. So many people get caught up in the work-aholic or even fear-driven lifestyle, that they forget to stop, refocus and really enjoy the great things that come our way all the time. I think we are too bogged down by our ever fast-paced world that we forget to--forgive the cliche--smell the roses. And that's what I plan to do in France and why I am going. I plan to shop the markets, be awestruck by the history, soak up the culture---and maybe even find myself on a stage, singing my heart out. A friend put it best when she said that most people live their lives just trying to get by and I'm going to a place where I can actually LIVE for a while... So, I'm trying to just keep calm, let the loose ends tie up, and be ready for whatever life has in store for me on the other side of the ocean!

Preparation

2004-08-17T09:21:00.000-04:00

One more month before takeoff, and so much yet to do! Number one, must sell car! It's either that or become a fugitive. ;) So, besides the car, next on the list is packing. How does one pack for at least 7 months? How do you pare down a whole lifestyle into two moderate sized suitcases? Very carefully. :) And besides the dilimma between packing books or more underwear, there's lots of good-byes to make. But good-byes are never forever, so that's why I'm building this webpage. So I can share my adventures with the world! So check in here every once in a while. I plan to keep everyone informed and enlightened. I'll tell you if the French really DO stink and if they really DO hate Americans---hopefully, I'll dispell these ugly rumors and entertain you with a few new ones. ;)